Recently
I attended part of the ENOTECA OPEN DAY celebration, the company's 60th
anniversary. John Portelli, is one of the proprietors and is very passionate
about Italian produce food and wine in Australia. When
I lived in Adelaide I used to visit the original Enoteca Sileno in
Amess Street and we used to load up the car with Italian wines and
goodies to take back to Adelaide.
With
his usual charm and enthusiasm John conducted a presentation about Parmigiano
Reggiano. While he very carefully and skilfully split open a wheel of an eight
year old cheese he told his audience how it is made and the process that is
required to make, store and cut this large wheel of cheese which weighed around
45 kg each. In brief, it takes
1100 litres to produce two cheese wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Each cheese is then catalogued and the Parmigiano-Reggiano
name, the plant's number, and month and year of production are placed on a
metal configuration that is buckled tight around the cheese.
Those
cheeses that pass the test are then heat branded on the rind. The average
Parmigiano-Reggiano wheel is about 18–24 cm high and 40–45 cm in
diameter. The cheese is stored and matured for one year and then tested by a
professional who evaluates each cheese by tasting a sample section. The testing
continues until the cheese is sold and continues throughout if it is sold to a
vendor who cares and continues to look after it properly to age and cut the
cheese in the best possible way.
During
his demonstration John explains that in the Enoteca Sileno warehouse where his
wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano are stored, to help with the maturation process,
each cheese is regularly rubbed with olive oil – the extra special virgin olive
that is available in the Enoteca Sileno showroom for tasting. Enoteca always uses
fresh oil for tastings, so the oil that is left in the bottle after tastings is
used to lubricate the cheese. Now, that it exceptionally good treatment.
This is the Parmigiano-Reggiano to eat and it was
eight years old.
It
so happened that the day before I was invited to a friend’s house for lunch.
One friend made cheese lollipops and she used Parmesan cheese. The hostess made
an excellent lasagne the traditional sort originating in Emilia Romagna made
with a classic ragù, béchamel and Parmigiano Reggiano. The type of lasagne my
mother always made on a Sunday when we invited friends to lunch.
I
thought the lollipops were a very clever idea. We had them with drinks while we
smelt the lasagne in the oven.
She
found the recipe Parmesan and poppy seed lollipops on the BBC website. It is
one of Lorraine Pascale’s from Baking Made Easy. And there is no need to use an
aged Parmigiano Reggiano for the lollipops.
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