SICILIAN CHEESE. A VISIT TO A MASSARO (farmer-cheese maker) IN RAGUSA

 Provola 

Recipe: Formaggio all’Argentiera (slices of fried cheese with 

garlic, vinegar and oregano) 

Ricotta is much loved by Sicilians who like to eat it very fresh. It is an essential ingredient, eaten on its own or used in cooking, both is savoury and in sweet dishes. See earlier post RICOTTA 

So too, Sicilians are very fond of any locally made cheese, and in Ragusa there are a considerable number of cows (rather than sheep) and local cheese makers.

My zia Niluzza lives in Ragusa and regularly has her ricotta and some caciocavallo (provola) cheese delivered by a local man who makes it on his small property.

For many years the cheese and ricotta used to be delivered by a man called Ciccio who made cheese on a small scale on a small farm (masseria) just outside of Marina di Ragusa. My aunt used to refer to him as a massaro (a farmer). He only had three cows. Those who have a few more cows are most likely to be called a vaccaro (a person who has cows). In order to be referred to as a casaro (a cheese maker) the person would need to produce a significant amount of cheese.

Ragusano cheese is also made locally in the environs of Ragusa, and if you have watched any of the Inspector Moltalbano programmes you would have seen Ragusa and its environs – nearly all the Montalbano episodes were filmed in this location. It is a provola cheese - the processing is similar to that used in making mozzarella. The curds are drained, then put in boiling water and stretched. 

Ragusano is a large, rectangular cheese and can weigh 10-16 kilograms (most weigh 12 kilograms) and it is one of the most original and oldest cheeses from Sicily. It is shaped in a traditional wooden mould and is predominantly made in small family farms. Its production is still tied to artisan and traditional cheese manufacturing; the cheese is salted and regularly rubbed with a mixture of oil and vinegar and this process gives the cheese a characteristic, dark, golden-yellow external skin. This cheese has a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) classification, designed to protect the integrity of European food and drink - it means that only items produced in a specific area in a particular way may bear that label in the European market.

Ciccio the massaro used to make Ragusano cheese, but since it has become a PDO cheese he cannot sell it to others. To convert his methods and equipment to satisfy the PDO requirements is far too costly.

I first visited this cheese maker in 1977. I remember my aunt being surprised that I expressed so much interest to accompany her on such a mundane trip, when we could have been doing more interesting sightseeing. We arrived unannounced and found the family making the ricotta and cheese in a two roomed barn with a packed-earth floor and thick stone walls – these apparently provided natural air conditioning for the cheeses to dry. I remember it being quite dark and smoky inside and when we arrived he had just made what was going to be his Ragusano – at this stage it was curd submerged in a tub. 

There were more tubs and cheeses in the second room – pear shaped provole and some large yellow cheeses were hanging from rafters (Ragusano). There were also a few white cheeses draining in reed baskets and some were maturing on racks. 

Apart from the strong smell of smoke, there was also a cloying, sour odour – mostly from the soured milk, but also the result of rubbing of extra virgin olive oil and vinegar onto the rind of the Ragusano to produce the characteristic colour of the cheese.

His, teenage son was standing over a large cauldron, positioned on a wood fire and stirring what was to become the ricotta – the whey left over from the caciocavallo with a little more milk. We all stood around waiting and watching. There was very little communication (except in Sicilian) and the son appeared to stir the cauldron for a long time until the liquid began to separate. His silent wife disappeared into the house and returned with a terracotta bowl for each of us and some bread, which she broke into pieces and put on the bottom of each bowl. Then each of us received a ladleful of curds and whey, and we were offered spoons. I made a comment at the time about this event. It was like ceremony in a church – the smoke (reminded me of incense), the silence, the secret language (Sicilian rather than Latin) the miracle of turning the whey into ricotta, and finally the sharing of it. I do not think that this went down very well - it was not intended to sound like blasphemy.

The cheese makers stood around delighted to see me taste the hot ricotta for the first time. Before this experience, I had no idea that eating freshly made ricotta was considered such treat, nor that it was manufactured in such primitive conditions. 

We took back to Ragusa some Ragusano, fresh provola, ricotta salata (ricotta which is drained, salted and left to dry) and some fresh ricotta – the warm curds draining in a basket made of reeds. 

My brother and his wife visited Sicily shortly after this event and because I had been very excited by this experience, zia Niluzza took them to his masseria (farm), unfortunately on a rather warm day. My sister-in-law, who does not like milk very much, could not bring herself to eat this odoriferous concoction. I was told that zia was very embarrassed by her refusal and I can imagine the cheese makers standing around expectant and being disappointed by her response. But I also know how my sister-in-law's stomach must have felt – the sweet smell of the curds combined with the acid smells of cheeses (in various stages drying), the smoke and heat generated from around the cauldron could have been nauseating. Zia Niluzza had planned the visit without consultation, not remotely considering for a moment that there are individuals in this world that cannot stomach milk or cheese, let alone warm curds in a watery whey.

Ciccio no longer makes cheeses and my aunt tells me that  he has sold his farm because economic and environmental conditions have changed in Ragusa. 

Zia Niluzza now goes to a different masseria to eat fresh ricotta. On my last trip to Sicily she was organising a group of women from her church to go with her. She does this on a regular basis and apparently there are now many masserie in Sicily who are opening up their doors to locals and to tourists to eat hot ricotta. I did not wish to go with her – I do not want my previous memories to fade.

I have already written a recipe for Baked Ricotta (see RICOTTA FRISCA‘NFURNATA – RICOTTA FRESCA INFORNATA (Baked, fresh ricotta) 

Formaggio all’Argentiera is also a favourite in my kitchen, especially as an antipasto. It is very easy to prepare, and I have never had complaints from guests.

Argento is the word for silver, and silversmiths could eat cheese cooked in this manner. Also, the method of cooking it is the same as the method that could be used to cook meat. The poor could not afford to eat meat (the silversmiths could), but the poor could cook cheese and give the impression of being well off (to any one who was walking past their house while they were cooking the cheese). 

In Sicily it is made with provola cheeses (as mentioned above). I also use slices of formaggio fresco.

INGREDIENTS 

For each slice of cheese use a little extra virgin olive oil to fry the cheese.  

Also: 1 large olive clove of garlic (crushed), ½ teaspoon of oregano, pepper, 1 tablespoons of white wine vinegar and a pinch of sugar.

PROCESSES

I use a non-stick frypan.

Heat the oil; use medium heat.

Add the garlic, the slices of cheese and lower the heat. Sprinkle the cheese with some of the dry oregano and pepper.

Cook for about 1 minute until golden in colour, turn the cheese over and again sprinkle the cheese with some dry oregano and pepper and cook for as long again.

Remove the fried cheese to the serving dish.

Add the vinegar and sugar into the hot oil, cook for about 1-2 minutes until part of the liquid evaporates.

Pour the sauce over the cheese and serve.

BAR IDDA (no.2) and INSALATA DI MELANZANE with SAINT ANTHONY

Bar Idda  

132 Lygon Street, Brunswick East, Melbourne
Phone 9380 5339
Food Sicilian
Owner Alfredo and Lisa La Spina

See my earlier post 'BAR IDDA and PADRE PIO'
           
This photo of two different types of eggplants( the light purple ones are called violette) was taken in the Ballaro` market in Palermo. See my earlier post 'EGGPLANT or ZUCCHINI PARMIGIANA'

I ate at Bar Idda again last night and this time I was directly in the gaze of sant’ Antonio. On the table, sitting in a glass was a small holy picture with the image of sant’ Agata, (the size to fit into one’s prayer book). She is the patron saint of Catania. On the back of the card there is the information about a six-course feast on Sunday 7th February at Bar Idda. 

Padre Pio was still there, but out of sight around the corner.

Once again I had a wonderful meal. Sicilian ‘peasant’ food does not have to be tasteless and Bar Idda’s food may be simple (choice of inexpensive ingredients, method of cooking and presentation), but it is always full of Sicilian authentic flavours. I am talking about the agro dolce, mint, fennel seeds, cinnamon and cloves. The food is fresh and seasonal, and I always enjoy eating there.

I know all about sant’ Agata (Agatha). She was the beautiful and rich young woman who lived the life of a saint while she was still alive. A man of power (Quinctianus) wanted her, but she refused. She was beaten, imprisoned and tortured. Her breasts were cut off and finally she was roasted over hot coals. 

Naturally there were miracles – she is recognised for averting eruptions of Mount Etna (over Catania) and she also saved the Catanesi from the plague. And they still love her in Catania and celebrate her feast day. There are cakes and sweets (shaped as breasts), not to make fun of her, but to commemorate her sanctity.

But sant’ Antonio is said to be from Padua in the north of Italy. It is a short distance west of Venice. So why is he in a Sicilian Restaurant?

It so happens that the picture belonged to Lisa’s nonna. Sant’ Antonio is usually depicted holding baby Jesus in his arms.  He also holds a lily - in Christian art the lily is a symbol of integrity and purity of life.  In Europe, lilies are in bloom in the middle of June when the feast of St. Anthony is celebrated. Sometimes he is also holding a book because he was a scholar. He is the saint who finds lost things (old Sicilian recipes?). He was primarily a saint of the people – especially the poor. He was also close to St. Francis of Assisi. He, too, performed many miracles during his lifetime. 

But sant’ Antonio is not from Padua at all. He was born in Lisbon, Portugal, in 1195 and entered the Augustinian Order at the age of 15. Two years later, he relocated to the convent of Santa Cruz in Coimbra and spent eight years in study and prayer.

In 1220 a number or Franciscans were martyred in Morocco. St Anthony was inspired by their martyrdom and was determined to preach the Gospel in the Moslem lands of North Africa. He joined the Franciscans and tried to sail to Morocco, but his ship ran into storms and was blown east across the Mediterranean on the east coast of Sicily. The friars in Messina nursed him back to health.

And there you have it – a connection to Sicily. Whether Lisa and Alfredo of Bar Idda know this or not, they do know that sant’ Antonio is the patron of finding lost things and they have him facing the kitchen, keeping an eye on the ingredients.

Sant’ Antonio later went to France and Italy and ended up in Padua and died there on June 13 in 1231 at the age of 36. 

One of the simple things I ate last night was an eggplant salad. I know about this recipe because a Sicilian friend of my mother used to make it.

INSALATA DI MELANZANE

INGREDIENTS AND PROCESSES

Wash, prick and cook 2 whole eggplants in salted boiling water.

Once cooked (and soft), place them in a colander and cut them into strips- allow them to drain.

Dress with extra virgin olive oil, a dash of vinegar, salt and fresh mint (cut finely).

When I make this salad I also add some finely chopped garlic. 

I also know that as a variation in some parts of Sicily (this salad is also common in some parts of Calabria) a few chopped anchovies can be added, but I prefer the fresh taste of the eggplant. Simple, in season and fragrant!!!

Well done Bar Idda once again.

PURPU VUGGHIUTU – POLPO BOLLITO (Italian). Boiled octopus or octopus salad.

In most Sicilian restaurants it is common to see octopus salad on menus. Generally it is in the antipasto section, and in many restaurants this is presented as a whole octopus on a plate. On some occasions I have eaten it as a warm salad simply dressed with oil, lemon juice, chopped parsley and spring onion. Sometimes it includes chopped red chilies and/or garlic.

As a cold salad the octopus is usually sliced into thick chunks and marinated in the dressing for at least a few hours beforehand.

The photo of the octopus salad was taken in a restaurant In Mazara del Vallo (south of Marsala on the west coast). It contains spring onions, celery and basil.

This particular recipe salad contains a few more ingredients than the simple salad described above.

Octopus, like squid, either has to be cooked very quickly or for a very long time, and of course the fresher the better. In several fish markets in various cities in Sicily, I have seen live octopus kept in a bucket of sea water. The vendor will kill the octopus when the buyer is ready to take it home. As you can imagine, this sght is quite upsetting.

INGREDIENTS

octopus,  about 3 kilos (it shrinks). I prefer to buy the large ones rather than baby octopus which is usually imported from overseas.

carrots,  2 -3 sliced into rounds, thin

celery, 4 stalks, the light green ones from the centre of the celery and some of the tender leaves

fresh mint leaves, to taste

green olives, a handful (schiacciate are the best)

lemons, 2 sliced into thin slices and the juice of 2 others for the dressing

extra virgin olive oil, ¾ cup

garlic, 1-2 cloves chopped, or 1-2 sliced spring onions

salt and freshly ground pepper or chopped fresh chili 

PROCESSES

Clean the octopus, turn out the body and empty it, remove the eyes and the beak at the base of the tentacles, then rinse the octopus under cold running water.

Place the octopus into a saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover it.

Bring slowly to the boil and simmer until it can easily be pricked by a fork (for about 5-10minutes).

Add the salt, take it off the stove and allow the octopus to remain in the water to finish cooking for an extra 15 minutes.

Prepare the salad ingredients, slice the carrots, the celery, chop the mint and celery leaves, add the lemon slices and the green olives (no stone).

Make the dressing by combining the lemon juice, olive oil, chopped garlic/onions.

Drain the octopus and remove any offending skin. Slice the octopus and place it into a serving bowl with the salad ingredients, salt and pepper.

Toss the octopus salad.

Serve warm or marinate and present it cold.